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Pro Twin Performance is a leading supplier and designer of performance parts, cylinder head porting, camshafts, and high performance engine kits for Harley-Davidson motorcycles. ALL the Best Kevin.

Hey Kev - Just read this post. If a motor is run too rich during break in, will premature wear on the piston rings show up as lower pressure numbers from a compression test? Dale Tinker. Kevin - I have just read this and it confirms something I always said about break-in but never fully understood - I said "Ride it like you stole it.

It also makes sense about two rich an AFR can wash the oil off the bore and dilute it, too. Thank you, Kevin. Post a Comment. On many occasions over the past couple years I've heard the term "break in map". I've never really understood what this meant so I decided to ask around.

I was really surprised at the answers I got This, under no terms, is the correct way to break in an engine. As I've said before on this blog, I'm not here to debate how to do engine break in. There are dozens of opinions but I will say confidently, running it rich in the beginning is not the way to do it. Doing so will permanently damage the engine causing power loss you will never get back. Outling break in procedure is important to explain why rich mixtures during break in is a critical mistake.

Here's why The piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.

If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall. It can't. This will probably be my last blog post for I would like to wish everyone the best during the holidays and a happy new year. See ya in ! Happy Motoring! Saturday, November 29, Engine Oil. Since we covered filters, and I haven't posted anything in a while, I thought it a good time to cover some facts about engine oils.

I know there are many opinions but again, what I'll state here is fact and you can make your own decision based off it. I also won't get into the synthetic vs petro based oil The most common questions I get asked is "can i run regular car oil", "why do i have to buy harley oil", and "can i run diesel oil like Rotella"? So here we go To first take it all in, we need to know what the API ratings on oil mean. So what do the API ratings mean? For starts, the "C" specification is for diesel compression ignition and the "S" series is for gasoline spark ignition.

Look at the API website for better info. If you just want the short version It is defined as "CF - Indirect-Injected Diesel Engine Service - Service typical of indirect-injection diesel engines and other diesel engines that use a broad range of fuel types, including those using fuel with high sulfur content; for example, over 0. Effective control of piston deposits, wear and copper or brass-containing bearing corrosion is essential for these engines, which may be naturally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged.

Also recommend where severe axial loads may be present. At first we would think this to be an ideal scenario for our performance engines Diesel-rated oils typically have more detergents in them to deal with this. This is where the problem comes in Diesel-rated oils also have an anti-foaming agent in them which is unique to diesel engines, and not needed in gas engines.

So what are the advantages? Regular automotive oil: Most do not have the CF rating and also lack the heavy detergents and anti foaming agents. Good but I want the additional lubrication and protection CF provides. To make it as easy as possible I'd want the "CF" protection that diesel oil provides but without the harsh detergents and anti-foaming agents. This rules out regular automotive oils and true diesel oils. It leaves us with HD oil and synthetics like Amsoil and a couple others Sunday, September 14, Dyno Variables.

If you are not getting the numbers as stated or higher, there is either an issue with the tune or the assembly. We state a range for reasons I will outline below. We are not a factory and don't have a huge assembly line or labor force putting parts together. Everything is re-engineered by the same human hands, every time, to exact standards to ensure consistancy We have control over this A dyno is a tool not a defacto standard.

There is no such thing. Look at the performance before and after the build Monday, August 25, The Ol' mans build. Last weekend I had the chance to do something I've never done before My mom and dad split just after I was born and my dad and I really didn't get to know each other that well until I hit my early 20s. Regardless, he and I both had a passion for motorcycles and that's pretty much what brought us back together. Guess what they say is true Anyway, he and my father-in-law went on the Head Quarters PowerTour with us and we all had a blast.

Only problem was that he was on a stock scoot Needless to say, he wanted to keep that from happening again. So we built our first engine together He pulled in on Friday eve, had er running by Saturday afternoon then got rained out. There's more in there but the head pipes I think are holding the HP back a bit Had to throw a couple pics in here I don't think the man has ever seen a clock tick past midnight.

We had a great time though He forgot to put his backrest back on and according to him That's it for now Thursday, August 14, Octane and Ethanol. This question has become ever more popular I probably get it several times a week and it involves octane, ethanol, and how states require fuel to be mixed. Before I get too involved, let me first explain what "octane" really is.

The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, you get detonation. Lower-octane gas like octane gasoline can handle the least amount of compression before igniting where higher octane like 93, can handle more compression, which is why we run it in high performance engines.

Keep in mind the effective compression limit for 93 octane is very close to To make it as simple as possible, the higher the octane, the "less flammable" the fuel.

Each state determines whether gasoline needs to be labeled if containing ethanol, so if you're in an area where labeling is voluntary or not required, you wont always know if the gasoline contains ethanol. Ethanol blends are offered extensively throughout the Midwest and are becoming more and more widely available from coast to coast. Unfortunately, if you live in a state that doesn't require labeling, you don't know if you are getting a TRUE 93 after ethanol, or 93 plus giving you octane.

The problem is that if your bike is tuned on 93 octane no ethanol and all of a sudden you use E, you may feel as if you've lost power. You have, but not really This can be worked out with proper ignition timing adjustments. Call your local clean air force, energy association, etc and ask if your state is one that requires ethanol blending to be posted at the pump. If they do and it's posted as 93, rock on.

If they dont and they tell you the posted octane is before E is added, you can be more aggressive with igntion timing and pick up more performance than those with a true I feel it important to note this is why "universal fit all" timing tables don't always work and can be another factor as to why identical builds can produce mildly different dyno results.

A octane jump can be worth a few degrees of timing. Side note: altitude plays into this as well but we've already talked about that on the techgroup Kevin Baxter.

I installed lower fairings on my FLH over the winter and have been riding with them on up until yesterday. It's bouncing close to F here in Atlanta, so needless to say, it's been a little warm.

Over the past few weeks I've been doing some tuning, building maps, etc and of course I like to always keep track of cylinder head temperatures. I found what I expected on the front, just below deg at the spark plug Then I checked the rear I of course played with fuel mixtures and timing and nothing seemed to make a sizeable difference until I took the lowers off with are "vented". I was expecting it to lower temps a little but not 70F lower!

Just an FYI Friday, August 1, Oil Filter Research. I decided to do some oil filter research after what we found while designing the Black Ops lifters. Considering a lifter does such a great job of trapping small particulate, I figured we should be running the best oil filters we could get our hands on.

Abrasive engine wear can be substantially reduced with an increase in filter single pass efficiency. Compared to a 40 micron filter, engine wear can be reduced by 50 percent with 30 micron filtration. Likewise, wear can be reduced by 70 percent with 15 micron filtration. That being said The following is a good rule of thumb. A filter is considered nominally efficient at a certain micron level if it can remove 50 percent of particles that size.

A filter is considered to achieve absolute filtration efficiency at a certain micron level if it can remove So, if a filter can remove Most off-the-shelf filters are based upon a cellulose fiber filtration media. Most of these filters are, at best, nominally efficient at 15 to 20 microns. They won't generally achieve absolute efficiency until particle sizes reach 30 microns or higher. High efficiency oil filters have filtration media made of a combination of at least two of the following: glass, synthetic fibers and cellulose fibers.

Those that use all three are generally the best in terms of filtration. Those that use only two will fall somewhere in between. The best of these high efficiency filters will achieve absolute efficiency down to about 10 microns and will be nominally efficient down to 5 microns or so. I researched many different filter brands of course some were private labels which crossed over readily available for HDs and would you believe that the Harley Super Premium 5 brand was the only one I could find rated at a nominally efficient 5 microns?

Happy Motoring, Kevin. More Lifter Info. One of our HQ Techline members, Battersby, was kind enough to provide these pics while "pre-charging" his lifters. Here's a few more facts about lifters from Doug:. There is an expression in the lifter industry. A lifter will capture dirt particles as small as 1 micron. A top quality fine oil filter only captures dirt 5 microns or larger. So clean engine assembly is a must. And it takes only seconds. Clean engine assembly, clean oil and priming of the lifters before initial start up is essential.

Tuesday, July 29, Octane Boosters. I occasionally get asked about the use of octane boosters in performance engines. While in some rare cases they are necessary, they are NOT in our builds if tuned properly This issue came to me today from one of our dealers As you can see, there is an extensive layer of iron and manganese deposits on the plug insulation and electrode as well as the oxygen sensor for the closed loop fuel system thus corrupting the vital control of the air to fuel ratio.

This generally results in a rich bias, compromising both emissions and fuel economy. The primary ingredient used in most octane boosters is a chemical called methyl cyclopenta dienyl manganese tricarbonyl, or MMT. In VERY controlled and minute quantities.